Posted on
2010-08-16
Once in a land not so far away, the sea was silver with herring. That’s according to the locals you’ll meet on the western islands of Sweden. There was once, apparently, a time when you could dip buckets into the water and they’d come up brimming with the country’s national dish. The fish have come and gone from Sweden’s west coast, but now they’re back (in slightly less legendary amounts) they make for a great dish and another reason to head this way.
There are literally hundreds of islands to pick from in the west, each with their own twist. Want to feel like you’re on your very own island? Pater Noster is small enough to throw a stone over (almost) and you can enjoy a glass of bubbly in an iconic 19th century red iron lighthouse to accompany the 360 degree views. Back down for a spin in the outdoor hot tub tops off a pretty perfect day.
If you’re searching for where the locals go, you’ll find them on Marstrand. Sweden’s summer escape. Walk passed the red-roofed houses and overflowing flower gardens – you’ve probably seen them on a postcard – to get to local cafés and boutiques. Classic seaside town? Check.
A hop over to Åstol Island, and you’ll know the names of half the residents after a few days (or hours; how outgoing are you feeling?). Don a cosy rug around your shoulders and take in some fresh sea air as Pia, Leif and their staff bring you smoked herring from their very own smokery. With a population under 300, they know every face. You’ll feel like a regular in no time.
Traditional Swedish schnapps, floating hotels and a private night in a floating sauna…yes please. At Salt & Sill hotel and restaurant, try a taster herring dish with a different flavoured schnapps to match each way the fish is cooked, and on your last night, take the floating sauna for a spin. You’ll be out at sea for a night of steaming away, bubbles on the balcony and sleeping to the sound of nothing but the local seals.
Whether it’s peace and quiet, a chilled community or a bustling local hotspot, our secret (until now) place to head is West Sweden’s islands. All the authentic, rustic charm you could want and none of the tourist hoards. Yet.
For more information about Sweden and to book, visit www.blacktomato.co.uk or call on 020 7426 9888.